I have always loved Fair Isle knitting. In fact it is one of my favorite techniques in knitting and more so now that I’m a spinner. I’m sure you are wondering why there should be a connection between spinning and Fair Isle knitting any more than spinning and Lace knitting, or spinning and Aran knitting. I like Fair Isle knitting because I, as a spinner, tend to enjoy trying various types of fibre. It is a pleasure to go to spinning vendors and pick up 100 grams of this and 100 grams of that and take my many little samples home and spin them up. I tend to have a ball of this and a ball of that. So when I look in my basket I find that there are little bits of many colours and textures but not enough to do something like a sweater in any one given colour. That is where Fair Isle knitting comes in.
We tend to think of Fair Isle knitting in this day and age, as any knitting that uses more than one colour. However, this is not the case. Fair Isle knitting actually comes from the Island of Fair which is sandwiched between the Orkney Islands and the Shetland Islands off the North coast of Scotland. I went on the Fair Isle travel web site and this is what they had to say:
The real ‘Fair Isle’ knitwear
The term ‘Fair Isle Knitting' is now used worldwide for a type of stranded colour knitting with horizontal bands of geometric patterns. But this unique style developed on Fair Isle long ago, when local knitters discovered that fine yarns stranded into a double layer produce durable, warm, yet lightweight garments.
For hundreds of years demand for hand-knitting kept Fair Isle women busy. Islanders traded with passing ships, bartering their homemade textiles and fresh produce for goods they couldn’t make themselves.
Today the only source of the genuine article is still Fair Isle, where a small cooperative - Fair Isle Crafts - produces traditional and contemporary sweaters on hand-frame machines, quality-controlled and labeled with Fair Isle's own trade mark.
The traditional colours of red, blue, brown, yellow and white, combined with the original patterns, were much sought after for their unique value, but in the 1920s Fair Isle sweaters knitted in the natural wool colours of brown, grey, fawn and white became highly fashionable.
Elizabeth Zimmermann also said that “Fair Isle knitting uses distinctive pattern of “OXO” in one band followed by a skinnier band of stranded knitting where two or more colours are used, however, it is the OXO pattern that makes true Fair Isle knitting distinctive.
The Norwegian use double stranded knitting (knitting where the second colour is carried across the back) as do many other countries, but they have their own distinctions that are significantly different from Fair Isle.
The Fair Isle knitters were able to sustain themselves in times of hardship because their knitting was in high demand for its distinction. The men of the household would take their boats out to passing ships where they would trade their wives knitting among other things and barter for goods that they could not attain otherwise. In fact it was just such a trip in the late 1800s that became a tragedy for the Fair Islanders when two of four boats were caught in a storm and one was lost with all hands while the other made it back to shore with only some of its crew still alive. This was devastating for the small population of the Island and has left a significant impact, with a monument left to the dedication of those men lost in that accident.
So, if you enjoy stranded knitting, then check out the many Fair Isle patterns, as a way of using up your odds and ends. I like to adapt the patterns not just for “jumpers and vests” which are the traditional product but for afghans and shawls, or mittens and sox. You never know where the adventure of Fair Isle will take you.
Sunday, April 13, 2008
Thursday, April 10, 2008
Try A Breeds Book Of Your Own
Now that I have finished the work for my Master Spinner Level 1, I would like to give those who follow this blog an idea about some of the work that I did to complete the projects. I will begin by telling about the research that was required for the breeds books.
When I received the assignment requirements, the breeds book project intrigued me and so I was quite happy to start on it almost immediately after I returned from Olds College last July. I had returned home with several samples of breeds that I had collected while at the college. For you laymen out there, sheep are not just white fluffy things with an odd black one thrown in for variety. There are over four thousand breeds of sheep all with their own genetic lineage. My assignment was to research ten of them, and of course being a fanatic, I ended up with many more than that. I finished eighteen in all but I have another five waiting my attention and will probably do more than that as the opportunity arises. Then there are the thousands of cross breeds which I haven’t even yet begun to explore. My list went like this:
1 Cheviot
2 Corriedale
3 Cormo (New Zealand)
4 Cotswold
5 Icelandic
6 Jacob
7 Leichester (Blue Faced)
8 Merino
9 Polwarth
10 Polypay
11 Rambouillet
12 Rideau Arcott
13 Romney
14 Scottish Black Face
15 Shetland
16 South Down Baby Doll
17 Teeswater
18 Wensleydale
I still have some Suffolk, Gotland, Coopworth, Dorset, and Border Leichester, to try and I am hoping to get my hands on some fleece from a Newfoundland sheep or a St Jacques sheep, both of which have developed from natural crossing of various sheep in Newfoundland. I guess from natural selection, these animals, being isolated, have developed their own genetic identity.
The exercise has been a real eye opener. I couldn’t believe how much I learned from the variety of breeds. They all have their unique qualities that are more distinct than you might think. Briefly, I would have to say that my favorites so far, are; Cheviot, Polworth, Polypay, and Wensleydale. Wensleydale was bizarre but in the end I have to say that I loved it. It was really cool and naturally wanted to be a lovely novelty yarn. (I’ve discovered that I really enjoy the process and creativity behind designing a novelty yarn. But more about that on another day....)
Trying out a variety of breeds is very helpful if you are interested in designer yarns or if you have a specific project in mind. By spinning as many varieties as possible can only help a spinner be better equipped to choose a fleece that will best suit a specific project. Though I was not in favour of Cotswold I could definitely see the benefits of using this fleece for a carpet. It was by far the strongest fibre in my selection of breeds and would not break when I tried. As a matter of a fact, it cut into my hands and I ended up having to use scissors. At the opposite end of the spectrum was Super Fine Merino.... this stuff, in my opinion, was awful, mostly because it was so very subject to breakage. It was so weak that I never did find a method of opening the fibres that didn’t subject it to breakage. I think teasing it carefully was probably the most one could do to prepare it for spinning.
Each breed differs from sheep to sheep so trying just one of each breed gives you only a snapshot of the breed, and everything depends on the health of the animal and the ability of the shepherd to care for the animal. And I won’t even mention the difference between the different sections of the sheep itself.
Along with my research on he qualities of my selection of breeds, I was able to find some historical information about most of the breeds that I tried. This too was very informative. If you are a bit of a history buff you might find this aspect of such a project very interesting. It also gave me a clue as to the work that is involved with developing a new breed and how natural selection can develop breeds spontaneously over a period of years,
The variety of fleeces that are out there is amazing and new breeds are being developed as you read this. The newest one that I have heard of is called Spinsleydale..... hmmm.... I guess I shall have to try to get my hands on some of that too! Happy Spinning!
When I received the assignment requirements, the breeds book project intrigued me and so I was quite happy to start on it almost immediately after I returned from Olds College last July. I had returned home with several samples of breeds that I had collected while at the college. For you laymen out there, sheep are not just white fluffy things with an odd black one thrown in for variety. There are over four thousand breeds of sheep all with their own genetic lineage. My assignment was to research ten of them, and of course being a fanatic, I ended up with many more than that. I finished eighteen in all but I have another five waiting my attention and will probably do more than that as the opportunity arises. Then there are the thousands of cross breeds which I haven’t even yet begun to explore. My list went like this:
1 Cheviot
2 Corriedale
3 Cormo (New Zealand)
4 Cotswold
5 Icelandic
6 Jacob
7 Leichester (Blue Faced)
8 Merino
9 Polwarth
10 Polypay
11 Rambouillet
12 Rideau Arcott
13 Romney
14 Scottish Black Face
15 Shetland
16 South Down Baby Doll
17 Teeswater
18 Wensleydale
I still have some Suffolk, Gotland, Coopworth, Dorset, and Border Leichester, to try and I am hoping to get my hands on some fleece from a Newfoundland sheep or a St Jacques sheep, both of which have developed from natural crossing of various sheep in Newfoundland. I guess from natural selection, these animals, being isolated, have developed their own genetic identity.
The exercise has been a real eye opener. I couldn’t believe how much I learned from the variety of breeds. They all have their unique qualities that are more distinct than you might think. Briefly, I would have to say that my favorites so far, are; Cheviot, Polworth, Polypay, and Wensleydale. Wensleydale was bizarre but in the end I have to say that I loved it. It was really cool and naturally wanted to be a lovely novelty yarn. (I’ve discovered that I really enjoy the process and creativity behind designing a novelty yarn. But more about that on another day....)
Trying out a variety of breeds is very helpful if you are interested in designer yarns or if you have a specific project in mind. By spinning as many varieties as possible can only help a spinner be better equipped to choose a fleece that will best suit a specific project. Though I was not in favour of Cotswold I could definitely see the benefits of using this fleece for a carpet. It was by far the strongest fibre in my selection of breeds and would not break when I tried. As a matter of a fact, it cut into my hands and I ended up having to use scissors. At the opposite end of the spectrum was Super Fine Merino.... this stuff, in my opinion, was awful, mostly because it was so very subject to breakage. It was so weak that I never did find a method of opening the fibres that didn’t subject it to breakage. I think teasing it carefully was probably the most one could do to prepare it for spinning.
Each breed differs from sheep to sheep so trying just one of each breed gives you only a snapshot of the breed, and everything depends on the health of the animal and the ability of the shepherd to care for the animal. And I won’t even mention the difference between the different sections of the sheep itself.
Along with my research on he qualities of my selection of breeds, I was able to find some historical information about most of the breeds that I tried. This too was very informative. If you are a bit of a history buff you might find this aspect of such a project very interesting. It also gave me a clue as to the work that is involved with developing a new breed and how natural selection can develop breeds spontaneously over a period of years,
The variety of fleeces that are out there is amazing and new breeds are being developed as you read this. The newest one that I have heard of is called Spinsleydale..... hmmm.... I guess I shall have to try to get my hands on some of that too! Happy Spinning!
Monday, April 7, 2008
Life Gets In The Way
I am finally able to get back to this blog. Now that my very crazy March month is over I will be trying to be fresh and keep up with new articles. I thought that I would have more interest with people suppling articles but that doesn't look like it will happen at least for a while. Shall continue to work on that. In the meantime I will try to keep putting articles here myself. You will find some information on Carding/Combing equipment below. Hope you enjoy.
FYI Carding/Combing Equipment and Uses
TEASE
Teasing fibre is the most unmechanized method of preparing fibre to be spun. The locks of fibre can be opened just by gently pinching the tips of the locks and pulling the fibre open towards the tips in a plucking motion. This is done lock by lock and can be very labour intensive. However, it is a good opportunity for the spinner to remove any inferior fibre like second cuts and any kemp or veggie matter. Each lock must be teased open on either end. While this process can be used to prep fibre for spinning most commonly it is used to prepare fibre for the drum carder or the hand cards.
FLICK CARDER
A flick carder is a small paddle that has metal teeth and is used to open, separate, and comb fibres of individual locks. This preparation is used mostly to prepare yarns to be spun in a worsted manner. The flick carder or also called the flicker, is used to remove veggie matter and weathered tips as well as shorter or damaged fibres. There are two motions used by a flicker. Laying a lock of fibre on your lap gently tap the flicker against the tips. This will open the fibres. Repeat the process on the other end of the lock. The second method is the one that I prefer which is to actually comb though the fibres of the lock on each end. A dog brush can be substituted for a flicker.
HAND CARDS
Hand cards are one of the many tools used to prepare fibre for spinning. Hand cards are rectangular paddles that have a sheet of curved, metal teeth on their face. The fibre is laid across the teeth of one paddle in such a manner that when the other card is passed gently over the it, the teeth will separate, straighten and open the fibres. Most hand cards for wool have a slight curve to the paddles so that when they pass over each other they will not bite into each other. It is a birdlike motion, often called a butterfly kiss, gently rocking one card over the other to pick up and comb out the fibres as it moves. Once the fibre has been transferred through the combing process from one paddle to the other, the process is repeated in the opposite direction by switching the paddle’s from one hand to the other. This process is repeated several times until the fibre has been completely separated and opened. The fibre is then lifted off by the other card and formed into rolags or sausages.
The teeth can be close together for finer shorter fibres like cotton or farther apart for coarser fibres like wool.
Hand cards can also be used for blending fibre types as well as colours.
DRUM CARDER
A drum carder is a useful machine that processes fibre in a similar manner to hand cards, however, it is used to process larger amounts of fibre than hand cards. The carding cloth which holds the metal teeth are attached to two drums that move in opposite directions to each other by turning a crank. The two drums are close enough together that when the fibre passes between them they open, separate, and straighten the fibre.
COMBS
There are many types of combs from small mini combs with single or double rows of tines to English or Dutch with three or four rows of times. The reasons for using combs is to get the best parallel preparation of fibres for worsted spinning. Each type of comb is geared toward a particular length of staple. The tines are sturdier than the teeth of carders and are longer as well. This is a very dangerous tool as the tines resemble nails and are very sharp. This tool should be treated with respect at all times.
Combs can be used so that one comb can be clamped to a table while the other one is passed through fibre that has been laid into the tines of the one that is clamped. This will pull out any fibre that is good leaving knotted and tangled fibre in the comb that is clamped. Mini combs do not use the clamp but are held stable by the hand. The knotted fibre is then removed as waste, leaving only the top fibre. This can then be passed through a diz to form a sliver.
HACKLES
Hackles are similar to a comb but it is longer in length and is clamped to a table and there is only one. It’s main purpose is to blend fibre types as well as colours.
Teasing fibre is the most unmechanized method of preparing fibre to be spun. The locks of fibre can be opened just by gently pinching the tips of the locks and pulling the fibre open towards the tips in a plucking motion. This is done lock by lock and can be very labour intensive. However, it is a good opportunity for the spinner to remove any inferior fibre like second cuts and any kemp or veggie matter. Each lock must be teased open on either end. While this process can be used to prep fibre for spinning most commonly it is used to prepare fibre for the drum carder or the hand cards.
FLICK CARDER
A flick carder is a small paddle that has metal teeth and is used to open, separate, and comb fibres of individual locks. This preparation is used mostly to prepare yarns to be spun in a worsted manner. The flick carder or also called the flicker, is used to remove veggie matter and weathered tips as well as shorter or damaged fibres. There are two motions used by a flicker. Laying a lock of fibre on your lap gently tap the flicker against the tips. This will open the fibres. Repeat the process on the other end of the lock. The second method is the one that I prefer which is to actually comb though the fibres of the lock on each end. A dog brush can be substituted for a flicker.
HAND CARDS
Hand cards are one of the many tools used to prepare fibre for spinning. Hand cards are rectangular paddles that have a sheet of curved, metal teeth on their face. The fibre is laid across the teeth of one paddle in such a manner that when the other card is passed gently over the it, the teeth will separate, straighten and open the fibres. Most hand cards for wool have a slight curve to the paddles so that when they pass over each other they will not bite into each other. It is a birdlike motion, often called a butterfly kiss, gently rocking one card over the other to pick up and comb out the fibres as it moves. Once the fibre has been transferred through the combing process from one paddle to the other, the process is repeated in the opposite direction by switching the paddle’s from one hand to the other. This process is repeated several times until the fibre has been completely separated and opened. The fibre is then lifted off by the other card and formed into rolags or sausages.
The teeth can be close together for finer shorter fibres like cotton or farther apart for coarser fibres like wool.
Hand cards can also be used for blending fibre types as well as colours.
DRUM CARDER
A drum carder is a useful machine that processes fibre in a similar manner to hand cards, however, it is used to process larger amounts of fibre than hand cards. The carding cloth which holds the metal teeth are attached to two drums that move in opposite directions to each other by turning a crank. The two drums are close enough together that when the fibre passes between them they open, separate, and straighten the fibre.
COMBS
There are many types of combs from small mini combs with single or double rows of tines to English or Dutch with three or four rows of times. The reasons for using combs is to get the best parallel preparation of fibres for worsted spinning. Each type of comb is geared toward a particular length of staple. The tines are sturdier than the teeth of carders and are longer as well. This is a very dangerous tool as the tines resemble nails and are very sharp. This tool should be treated with respect at all times.
Combs can be used so that one comb can be clamped to a table while the other one is passed through fibre that has been laid into the tines of the one that is clamped. This will pull out any fibre that is good leaving knotted and tangled fibre in the comb that is clamped. Mini combs do not use the clamp but are held stable by the hand. The knotted fibre is then removed as waste, leaving only the top fibre. This can then be passed through a diz to form a sliver.
HACKLES
Hackles are similar to a comb but it is longer in length and is clamped to a table and there is only one. It’s main purpose is to blend fibre types as well as colours.
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